Travail (Robinsdale)
Travail was opened in August 2010 by 2 young chef-restaurant-owner-wanna-be's (via the defunct Victory 44). Although it is, hands down, the best thing going in Robinsdale (42nd and Broadway) - and the food was inventive and well crafted, it was inconsistent and over the top in its presentation. Hats off to these guys for their courage but, Travail is an operationally amateur effort and lacks the service, snap and warmth of other chef-inspired competitors.
We won't be going back soon, but it is worth checking out - especially if you are in the neighborhood.
Friday, December 17, 2010
Wednesday, December 8, 2010
Antioxidants: What are they? What do they do? Why does that matter?
First, The Chemistry Lesson: Oxidation is one of, if not the most common chemical processes. Things like fire (turning carbon into carbon dioxide), rust (turning iron into iron oxide) and metabolism (the oxidation of sugar into CO2 and water) are all ‘oxidation’. The easiest way to stop oxidation is to keep the oxygen away: In the case of fire, smother it or, in the case of rust, paint it. In the case of metabolism, it becomes a little tougher and more complex.
Antioxidants all share an ability to ‘block’ oxygen. Most of what we think of as antioxidants in food (which we used to call preservatives, by they way) actually become the sacrificial lamb by using up the oxygen themselves.
Rancidity, staling, dull colors, ‘warmed-over’ flavor and ‘cardboard-ish’ flavor are all examples of oxidation problems in food. However, the one that is currently getting everyone all whipped up is a very specific reaction that produces free radicals as a byproduct of oxidation.
Free radicals are just ‘unpaired’ molecules (and molecules really don’t like to be unpaired) so they run around looking for something to hook onto – and they’re totally compulsive about it until they do. (It’s like teenagers in love: they can’t stand to be out-and-about not holding hands.)
Free radicals are problematic because this “need to hold hands” makes them ‘super-oxidizers’. What we think of as ‘nutritional’ antioxidants (vitamins C, A, E and others with long names, which are usually enzymes) are just compounds that do a good job of holding hands with free radicals – thereby rendering them harmless. (Much like the sense of relief I feel if that nipple-pierced freak at the mall is holding hands with someone other than my daughter.)
We worry about free radicals because their super oxidizing capability is linked with cell degeneration (aging) and other screwy cell behavior (cancer) caused by the rapid oxidation of sensitive biological molecules. This incredibly complex chemistry is, at best, only barely understood - which is the best argument I can think of for staying away from antioxidant supplements. In fact, there is a growing body of evidence that some enzyme-type antioxidant supplements (superoxide dismutases) may actually cause the problems they are claiming to prevent.
On the other hand, there is a solution: Plants do a great job of producing antioxidants that are effective against free radicals. They evolved to this for good reason: Their cells often have only one season to survive drought, pests, disease and other stresses – so they protect them by producing great antioxidants. Coincidentally, these same antioxidants also act to protect the pigments in bright, richly colored plants.
Bottom line: The most effective way to combat free radical cell damage is to consume the antioxidants obtained from eating bright, richly colored fruits and vegetables. According to the USDA, the 10 foods with the greatest antioxidant content are Red Beans, Blue/Cran/Black/Straw/Raspberries, Apples, Cherries, Plums, and Black Beans. You can be sure that other colorful plants (beets, carrots, pomegranate …) are great sources of antioxidants too!
Antioxidants all share an ability to ‘block’ oxygen. Most of what we think of as antioxidants in food (which we used to call preservatives, by they way) actually become the sacrificial lamb by using up the oxygen themselves.
Rancidity, staling, dull colors, ‘warmed-over’ flavor and ‘cardboard-ish’ flavor are all examples of oxidation problems in food. However, the one that is currently getting everyone all whipped up is a very specific reaction that produces free radicals as a byproduct of oxidation.
Free radicals are just ‘unpaired’ molecules (and molecules really don’t like to be unpaired) so they run around looking for something to hook onto – and they’re totally compulsive about it until they do. (It’s like teenagers in love: they can’t stand to be out-and-about not holding hands.)
Free radicals are problematic because this “need to hold hands” makes them ‘super-oxidizers’. What we think of as ‘nutritional’ antioxidants (vitamins C, A, E and others with long names, which are usually enzymes) are just compounds that do a good job of holding hands with free radicals – thereby rendering them harmless. (Much like the sense of relief I feel if that nipple-pierced freak at the mall is holding hands with someone other than my daughter.)
We worry about free radicals because their super oxidizing capability is linked with cell degeneration (aging) and other screwy cell behavior (cancer) caused by the rapid oxidation of sensitive biological molecules. This incredibly complex chemistry is, at best, only barely understood - which is the best argument I can think of for staying away from antioxidant supplements. In fact, there is a growing body of evidence that some enzyme-type antioxidant supplements (superoxide dismutases) may actually cause the problems they are claiming to prevent.
On the other hand, there is a solution: Plants do a great job of producing antioxidants that are effective against free radicals. They evolved to this for good reason: Their cells often have only one season to survive drought, pests, disease and other stresses – so they protect them by producing great antioxidants. Coincidentally, these same antioxidants also act to protect the pigments in bright, richly colored plants.
Bottom line: The most effective way to combat free radical cell damage is to consume the antioxidants obtained from eating bright, richly colored fruits and vegetables. According to the USDA, the 10 foods with the greatest antioxidant content are Red Beans, Blue/Cran/Black/Straw/Raspberries, Apples, Cherries, Plums, and Black Beans. You can be sure that other colorful plants (beets, carrots, pomegranate …) are great sources of antioxidants too!
Wednesday, December 1, 2010
Ann and Den's Restaurant List
We've been ask for our 'list' so often, we thought it'd be a good idea to start publishing it on Chons CaFe. Here are the current "Top Five". Look for the "Top Ten/Next Five", and so on, as well as updates and highlights, in the future!
Top Five
112 Eatery (Downtown Mpls)
Chef’s Chef, Isaac Becker and his wife Nancy St. Pierre’s firstborn (and a great example of the talent that the D’Amico system cranks into the Twin Cities restaurant scene). A sincerely personal and well disciplined staff serves not-very-expensive culinary creations. Easily the best food in town for the last half-dozen years.
Personal favorites: Tagliatelle w/ Foie Gras Meatballs, Scallops – and, if you’re hungry (or on an expense account): Nori Encrusted Sirloin w/ Ponzu. Ann goes almost exclusively for the Sweet & Sour Crab Salad.
Lucia’s (Uptown)
Lucia Watson is the 25 yr reigning queen of the 'local-vores' - she does an absolutely great job of proving that 'locally grown' doesn't mean 'plain'. If you are lucky enough to spot Lucia, she can tell you the 'people' story behind every menu item. Or - ask Steph the bartender, Robert the server - or anyone there - they'll give you the low-down. The bread alone (from Lucia's bakery, next door) is worth the trip!
Personal favorites: We recommend you start with the Rosemary Spiced Nuts, whatever else you do. I can make a meal of the bread and soup. Ann doesn't even order - they just bring her a Cheese Plate, honey and some greens.
Bar La Grassa (Warehouse District)
Isaac and Nancy (see 112 Eatery) took a big risk about a year ago - and it's a big hit! A great selection of both fresh and dried pasta creations - from traditional to very interesting (like urchin on torcio). I particularly like that you can order nearly every item in half-size. (Not that I eat half as much - I just get twice as much variety.) Currently, the place-to-be-seen, La Grassa is packed even on Mondays - and for good reason.
Personal favorites: The Lobster and Egg Bruchetta followed by Spagetti Carbonara - but, play around - there's lots to choose from, the items change often, and I've never been disappointed.
Biella (Excelsior)
Whoever thinks you can't find great Italian in a romantic setting outside the 494/694 loop, hasn't been to Biella! A romantic neighborhood feel, in a quaint Main Street setting. (The space housed the town bike store for years: high cielings with nice brick-and-plaster ambiance.) The menu isn't extensive, but has some real winners. Chef Raul Templanuevo really works miracles - especially given the stingy nature of the amiable-crumudgian owner, Mark Nazigian. We always sit at the bar because Dave "takes care of us" - but, if you are making a reservation for two, which I highly reccomend Thursday-thru-Saturday, request the window seats.
Personal favorites: The Scallops are the best anywhere. After that, I go for the Mussels and Chorizo in White Wine and Chimichiri or the Seafood Fettuccini. Ann is hooked on the Sauted Calimari in Harrissa.
Cafe 28 (Linden Hills)
Take a nice walk around Lake Harriet and then stroll a couple more blocks up Linden Hills Blvd to the old fire station on 43rd. Simple fare, locally grown with emphasis on sustainable and organic. Pretty kid friendly too. (Not sure that is always a plus.) Todd Haug, of Surly Brewery fame, is co-owner - so the beer list, while not the most extensive, is the best I've seen/tried. If you can locate the manager, Cory, ask him for an aria - he's a very accomplished Pavarotti-wanna-be - who's not shy about belting one out as you have a belt.
Personal favorites: Tofu Tacos in Salsa Verde make the top of my head glow. Gotta love'm! The Pork in Adobo is also a killer. Ann: Champagne Pear Salad.
Top Five
112 Eatery (Downtown Mpls)
Chef’s Chef, Isaac Becker and his wife Nancy St. Pierre’s firstborn (and a great example of the talent that the D’Amico system cranks into the Twin Cities restaurant scene). A sincerely personal and well disciplined staff serves not-very-expensive culinary creations. Easily the best food in town for the last half-dozen years.
Personal favorites: Tagliatelle w/ Foie Gras Meatballs, Scallops – and, if you’re hungry (or on an expense account): Nori Encrusted Sirloin w/ Ponzu. Ann goes almost exclusively for the Sweet & Sour Crab Salad.
Lucia’s (Uptown)
Lucia Watson is the 25 yr reigning queen of the 'local-vores' - she does an absolutely great job of proving that 'locally grown' doesn't mean 'plain'. If you are lucky enough to spot Lucia, she can tell you the 'people' story behind every menu item. Or - ask Steph the bartender, Robert the server - or anyone there - they'll give you the low-down. The bread alone (from Lucia's bakery, next door) is worth the trip!
Personal favorites: We recommend you start with the Rosemary Spiced Nuts, whatever else you do. I can make a meal of the bread and soup. Ann doesn't even order - they just bring her a Cheese Plate, honey and some greens.
Bar La Grassa (Warehouse District)
Isaac and Nancy (see 112 Eatery) took a big risk about a year ago - and it's a big hit! A great selection of both fresh and dried pasta creations - from traditional to very interesting (like urchin on torcio). I particularly like that you can order nearly every item in half-size. (Not that I eat half as much - I just get twice as much variety.) Currently, the place-to-be-seen, La Grassa is packed even on Mondays - and for good reason.
Personal favorites: The Lobster and Egg Bruchetta followed by Spagetti Carbonara - but, play around - there's lots to choose from, the items change often, and I've never been disappointed.
Biella (Excelsior)
Whoever thinks you can't find great Italian in a romantic setting outside the 494/694 loop, hasn't been to Biella! A romantic neighborhood feel, in a quaint Main Street setting. (The space housed the town bike store for years: high cielings with nice brick-and-plaster ambiance.) The menu isn't extensive, but has some real winners. Chef Raul Templanuevo really works miracles - especially given the stingy nature of the amiable-crumudgian owner, Mark Nazigian. We always sit at the bar because Dave "takes care of us" - but, if you are making a reservation for two, which I highly reccomend Thursday-thru-Saturday, request the window seats.
Personal favorites: The Scallops are the best anywhere. After that, I go for the Mussels and Chorizo in White Wine and Chimichiri or the Seafood Fettuccini. Ann is hooked on the Sauted Calimari in Harrissa.
Cafe 28 (Linden Hills)
Take a nice walk around Lake Harriet and then stroll a couple more blocks up Linden Hills Blvd to the old fire station on 43rd. Simple fare, locally grown with emphasis on sustainable and organic. Pretty kid friendly too. (Not sure that is always a plus.) Todd Haug, of Surly Brewery fame, is co-owner - so the beer list, while not the most extensive, is the best I've seen/tried. If you can locate the manager, Cory, ask him for an aria - he's a very accomplished Pavarotti-wanna-be - who's not shy about belting one out as you have a belt.
Personal favorites: Tofu Tacos in Salsa Verde make the top of my head glow. Gotta love'm! The Pork in Adobo is also a killer. Ann: Champagne Pear Salad.
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