Friday, March 4, 2011

Evolution: Your Handy Guide to Nutrition

In the process of ‘evolving’, we developed capabilities and relationships that gave us a continuously improving competitive edge. So, we stood up and walked, got opposing thumbs and a big cortex. We also developed an inscrutable set of nutritional complexities. However, complex as they are, when viewed through the lens of evolution, we get some great insights into what we should eat.

To answer the question “Should I eat it?” ask yourself “Did I evolve eating it?” You’ll get a "yes" to fruits, vegetables, meat and fish (yes, even the fats). You’ll get a resounding "no" to hydrogenated oils, high fructose and flavorings (even ‘natural’ ones). There might also be some surprises: A little dirt, bacteria and pollen might go a long way – and where would we have eaten ‘low-fat’ 10,000 years ago? You can even use this idea to ask “What combination of foods should I eat?” We evolved eating a lot of plants - and were only able to supplement our diets with hard to catch animals.

There is no altruism in nature. The plants and animals that provide the calories and nutrients we require always get something in return. The apple makes fruit as a way to drop its seeds further from the tree. Who needs the anti-oxidants (CHONS CaFe: Antioxidants) in blueberries more: us, to ward off cancer? - or the blueberry so it can stay brightly colored? Once we learned to care for and feed cows – and then started milking them before eating them - we eventually developed an ability to metabolize the sugar in their milk (CHONS CaFe: Lactose Intolerance).

We are also opportunistic. We ‘learned’ to use building materials from the things readily available for eating. Ever wonder what the ‘Essential Amino Acids” are? They are the nine protein building blocks that we can’t make ourselves – so we have to eat them. It's not that we couldn't make them, we just never needed to - so we didn't waste evolutionary resources developing that particular ability. Here’s another interesting one: We never bothered to produce Vitamin ‘C’ because we could eat it. Chickens, on the other hand can produce vitamin ‘C’, because it typically wasn't found in the foods that where readily available to them.

There is even a school of thought that says marijuana ‘learned’ to make humans feel good in return for propagation of its genetic material. This “cultivation evolutionary strategy” has put cows, goats, weed, corn and soybeans on the top of the ‘successful species’ list.

This all adds up to a time-tested symbiotic relationship that, even if we can’t unravel it enough to understand it, gives us great insights into what foods we need.

Next time you’re wondering if you should eat it, let your inner-caveman provide the answer.

Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Five Must-Visit Restaurants

We've been asked for our 'list' so often, we thought it'd be a good idea to start publishing our picks on CHONS CaFe. Our top five were posted last month (see Blog Archive in the right-hand column).

Here's a list of the five restaurants that we believe put Minneapolis on the culinary 'map'. All of these are inspired, chef driven, foodie-worthy eateries that can hold their own along side any restaurant on the planet.

If for no other reason than to say you've been there, these need to be on your bucket list.

Five Must-Visit Restaurants

Heartland (Meers Park)
A new incarnation of the restaurant near Macalester College, the ‘new’ Heartland is in a cavernous old warehouse, not accidentally across from St. Paul’s farmers market. Chef Lenny Russo has evolved from his start at the MN Horse and Hunt Club (which maybe explains things like Boar everything and other ‘wild’ offerings) to a true ‘local-vore’ master.

We found the recycled industrial motif to be a bit cold – but ‘eco-chic’ is in, right? Chef was very visible, involved, and approachable the night we visited. The menu was fantastically ambitious, but we found that, while many items sounded exotic (Mangalitsa Ribs or Duck Prosciutto), some of the items were pretty ordinary once they showed up.

The highlights: A phenomenal cheese plate and, especially, the home-made vermouth the mixologist used for our martinis (worth the trip alone).

Meritage (Downtown St Paul)
St. Paul’s best restaurant, by far. Although it’s pretty traditional French Brasserie stuff (not my favorite), the execution makes it happen. – And, now that they have a nice big new bar, we don’t have to sit at those little marble tables!

To be honest, we had a pretty bad experience with the service on about our fifth visit. (We accidentally went out on Valentine’s Day, which didn’t help.) The next day we got a personal e-mail from Chef Kline, who made good by personally cooking for us the next week “sans menu” – our own personal chef for a night – he even picked up the tab.

I also like the pedestrian feel of that part of St. Paul. Make the St. Paul Hotel your home base for the week-end and you’re within blocks of the Ordway and at least a dozen great restaurants, bars and other music/theater venues.

Le Belle Vie (Loring Park)
Here, more than any of our other 4 picks, it’s all about the food. ’09 James Beard winner Tim McKee’s Mediterranean creations are phenomenally well thought out, meticulously presented and breathtakingly great tasting! This is the one place I would definitely spring for the chef’s tasting menu.

We actually like the bar area better than the dining room, which seems pretty formal, stuffy and full of ‘old’ people. (It really requires the use of your best ‘inside voice’.) The bar area, on the other hand, has a warm Ralph Lauren/club feel - with some nice sitting areas and a big fireplace. It’s an expensive place to eat, but the two of you can do just fine for under $125 by working your way through the small plates, splitting an entrée and enjoying the very nice wine-by-the-glass list.

Alma (U of M area)
Probably on more “best” lists that any other local restaurant; the most telling is chef/owner Alex Roberts 2010 James Beard Award. Alex is a true Minneapolitan – but with a genuine New York pedigree.

The menu rotates often, so it is limited. (Actually, it’s often hard to find things that appeal to both of us.) The décor is sparse but not cold. There’s a perfect spot ‘upstairs’ for a group of 8-12 people.

Vincent (Downtown Mpls)
There actually is a ‘Vincent’ in the kitchen – and he’s a for-real French guy. From France. Go figure! (He followed his wife here when she went to work for NWA.) The food is definitely French, but not the pretentious kind. It’s of the very solid/savory variety, like a burger, steak, scallops - even a Hebrew National at the bar – and all definitely ‘award winning’.

The best place to go before or after Orchestra Hall: Before - for the very-reasonably-priced happy hour – the best steak tartar anywhere (capers and worcestershire) or the burger stuffed with short ribs and smoked gouda. Or, after - to see who comes in after the show and to enjoy some of the best food in Minneapolis.

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Waisted Gray Matter: Slim Your Way To A Bigger Brain!

I recently had a very interesting discussion with a Chemical Engineering buddy on delivering oxygen to the brain. (Admittedly, 30 years ago, we would have typically been working on the opposite process – especially in the course of a deep conversation.) As a medical device industry professional, Peter Horwich currently works in the area of tissue perfusion and oxygenation systems used in cardiopulmonary bypass procedures with companies like Guidant, Medtronic and small medical technology start-ups. Peter’s niche is in commercializing novel medical technologies in order to improve patient care.

According to Peter, "If you are like most people, the month of January usually begins the new year with a recommitment to exercise. Seems like every year, the amount of body weight to burn off is just a little bit more than previous. However, the importance of aerobic exercise has the potential to provide more than just a smaller waist line. Recent research suggests that regular exercise improves brain health and boosts memory capacity via the growth of grey matter (known as neurogenesis). Think of it like this: By running, you bring more oxygen to your tissues that result in burning your mid-line fat while also bolstering your memory.”

Peter believes the following article by Tamara Cohen of the Daily Mail does a credible job of summing up the current thinking:

We all know running is good for your body. But it can also do wonders for the mind, according to Cambridge University scientists. A regular jog leads to the growth of new cells in the area of the brain which boosts your memory, a study has found.

It is not clear why aerobic exercise triggers the growth of grey matter (known as neurogenesis) but it may be linked to increased blood flow or higher levels of hormones that are released while exercising.

Timothy Bussey, a behavioural neuroscientist at Cambridge and a senior author on the study said the team studied two groups of mice, one which had unlimited access to a running wheel while the other did not. After a few days left alone, they put both groups of mice through a series of memory tests on a computer screen. It displayed two identical squares side by side, and if they nudged the one on the left with their nose they received a sugar pellet reward, while the one on the right yielded nothing. The mice who had been running were almost twice as successful as those in the control group at picking the correct square. At the start of the test, the squares were 30cm apart, but got closer and closer together until they were almost touching. This part of the experiment was designed to test how good the mice were at separating two very similar memories. The human equivalent could be remembering what a person had for dinner yesterday and the day before, or where they parked on different trips to the supermarket. The greatest improvement was seen in the later stages of the experiment, when the two squares were so close they nearly touched, according to a report in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.

The sedentary mice got steadily worse at the test because their memories became too similar to separate.

Dr. Bussey told the Guardian: 'At this stage of the experiment, the two memories the mice are forming of the squares are very similar. It is when they have to distinguish between the two that these new brain cells really make a difference.' He added: 'We know exercise can be good for healthy brain function, but this work provides us with a mechanism for the effect.'

The scientists also tried to wrongfoot the mice by switching the square that produced a food reward but the running mice were quicker to catch on when scientists changed them around.

Brain tissue taken from the rodents showed that the running mice had grown fresh grey matter during the experiment. Tissue samples from the dentate gyrus part of the brain, one of the few regions of the adult brain which can grow new cells, revealed on average 6,000 new brain cells had been created.

Previous studies on people with depression have found their symptoms can improve if they exercise regularly. Some antidepressant drugs work by encouraging the growth of new brain cells. It is also thought exercise might also reduce stress, which inhibits new brain cells through a hormone called cortisol.

The Cambridge researchers joined forces with colleagues at the US National Institute on Ageing in Maryland to investigate the effect of running. A few days of running led to the growth of hundreds of thousands of new brain cells that improved the ability to recall memories without confusing them, a skill that is crucial for learning and other cognitive tasks, researchers said.

Something to think about... but I'm still an ardent subscriber to Cliff Clavin's "Buffalo Theory" on brain function:

“Well ya see, Norm, it’s like this. A herd of buffalo can only move as fast as the slowest buffalo. So when the herd is hunted, it is the slowest and weakest ones at the back that are killed first. This natural selection is good for the herd as a whole, because the general speed and health of the whole group keeps improving by the regular killing of the weakest members.

The human brain works that way too. It only operates as fast as the slowest brain cells. Excessive intake of alcohol, as we know, kills brain cells. But naturally, it attacks the slowest and weakest brain cells first. So, regular consumption of beer eliminates the weaker brain cells, making the brain a faster and more efficient machine. That’s why you always feel smarter after a few beers.”

Now THAT'S what I call solid science!

Friday, December 17, 2010

Review: Trivail (Robinsdale)

Travail (Robinsdale)
Travail was opened in August 2010 by 2 young chef-restaurant-owner-wanna-be's (via the defunct Victory 44). Although it is, hands down, the best thing going in Robinsdale (42nd and Broadway) - and the food was inventive and well crafted, it was inconsistent and over the top in its presentation. Hats off to these guys for their courage but, Travail is an operationally amateur effort and lacks the service, snap and warmth of other chef-inspired competitors.

We won't be going back soon, but it is worth checking out - especially if you are in the neighborhood.

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Antioxidants: What are they? What do they do? Why does that matter?

First, The Chemistry Lesson: Oxidation is one of, if not the most common chemical processes. Things like fire (turning carbon into carbon dioxide), rust (turning iron into iron oxide) and metabolism (the oxidation of sugar into CO2 and water) are all ‘oxidation’. The easiest way to stop oxidation is to keep the oxygen away: In the case of fire, smother it or, in the case of rust, paint it. In the case of metabolism, it becomes a little tougher and more complex.

Antioxidants all share an ability to ‘block’ oxygen. Most of what we think of as antioxidants in food (which we used to call preservatives, by they way) actually become the sacrificial lamb by using up the oxygen themselves.

Rancidity, staling, dull colors, ‘warmed-over’ flavor and ‘cardboard-ish’ flavor are all examples of oxidation problems in food. However, the one that is currently getting everyone all whipped up is a very specific reaction that produces free radicals as a byproduct of oxidation.

Free radicals are just ‘unpaired’ molecules (and molecules really don’t like to be unpaired) so they run around looking for something to hook onto – and they’re totally compulsive about it until they do. (It’s like teenagers in love: they can’t stand to be out-and-about not holding hands.)

Free radicals are problematic because this “need to hold hands” makes them ‘super-oxidizers’. What we think of as ‘nutritional’ antioxidants (vitamins C, A, E and others with long names, which are usually enzymes) are just compounds that do a good job of holding hands with free radicals – thereby rendering them harmless. (Much like the sense of relief I feel if that nipple-pierced freak at the mall is holding hands with someone other than my daughter.)

We worry about free radicals because their super oxidizing capability is linked with cell degeneration (aging) and other screwy cell behavior (cancer) caused by the rapid oxidation of sensitive biological molecules. This incredibly complex chemistry is, at best, only barely understood - which is the best argument I can think of for staying away from antioxidant supplements. In fact, there is a growing body of evidence that some enzyme-type antioxidant supplements (superoxide dismutases) may actually cause the problems they are claiming to prevent.

On the other hand, there is a solution: Plants do a great job of producing antioxidants that are effective against free radicals. They evolved to this for good reason: Their cells often have only one season to survive drought, pests, disease and other stresses – so they protect them by producing great antioxidants. Coincidentally, these same antioxidants also act to protect the pigments in bright, richly colored plants.

Bottom line: The most effective way to combat free radical cell damage is to consume the antioxidants obtained from eating bright, richly colored fruits and vegetables. According to the USDA, the 10 foods with the greatest antioxidant content are Red Beans, Blue/Cran/Black/Straw/Raspberries, Apples, Cherries, Plums, and Black Beans. You can be sure that other colorful plants (beets, carrots, pomegranate …) are great sources of antioxidants too!

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

Ann and Den's Restaurant List

We've been ask for our 'list' so often, we thought it'd be a good idea to start publishing it on Chons CaFe. Here are the current "Top Five". Look for the "Top Ten/Next Five", and so on, as well as updates and highlights, in the future! 

Top Five

112 Eatery (Downtown Mpls)
Chef’s Chef, Isaac Becker and his wife Nancy St. Pierre’s firstborn (and a great example of the talent that the D’Amico system cranks into the Twin Cities restaurant scene). A sincerely personal and well disciplined staff serves not-very-expensive culinary creations. Easily the best food in town for the last half-dozen years.

Personal favorites: Tagliatelle w/ Foie Gras Meatballs, Scallops – and, if you’re hungry (or on an expense account): Nori Encrusted Sirloin w/ Ponzu. Ann goes almost exclusively for the Sweet & Sour Crab Salad.

Lucia’s (Uptown)
Lucia Watson is the 25 yr reigning queen of the 'local-vores' - she does an absolutely great job of proving that 'locally grown' doesn't mean 'plain'. If you are lucky enough to spot Lucia, she can tell you the 'people' story behind every menu item. Or - ask Steph the bartender, Robert the server - or anyone there - they'll give you the low-down. The bread alone (from Lucia's bakery, next door) is worth the trip!

Personal favorites: We recommend you start with the Rosemary Spiced Nuts, whatever else you do. I can make a meal of the bread and soup. Ann doesn't even order - they just bring her a Cheese Plate, honey and some greens.

Bar La Grassa (Warehouse District)
Isaac and Nancy (see 112 Eatery) took a big risk about a year ago - and it's a big hit! A great selection of both fresh and dried pasta creations - from traditional to very interesting (like urchin on torcio). I particularly like that you can order nearly every item in half-size. (Not that I eat half as much - I just get twice as much variety.) Currently, the place-to-be-seen, La Grassa is packed even on Mondays - and for good reason.

Personal favorites: The Lobster and Egg Bruchetta followed by Spagetti Carbonara - but, play around - there's lots to choose from, the items change often, and I've never been disappointed.

Biella (Excelsior)
Whoever thinks you can't find great Italian in a romantic setting outside the 494/694 loop, hasn't been to Biella! A romantic neighborhood feel, in a quaint Main Street setting. (The space housed the town bike store for years: high cielings with nice brick-and-plaster ambiance.) The menu isn't extensive, but has some real winners. Chef Raul Templanuevo really works miracles - especially given the stingy nature of the amiable-crumudgian owner, Mark Nazigian. We always sit at the bar because Dave "takes care of us" - but, if you are making a reservation for two, which I highly reccomend Thursday-thru-Saturday, request the window seats.

Personal favorites: The Scallops are the best anywhere. After that, I go for the Mussels and Chorizo in White Wine and Chimichiri or the Seafood Fettuccini. Ann is hooked on the Sauted Calimari in Harrissa.


Cafe 28 (Linden Hills)
Take a nice walk around Lake Harriet and then stroll a couple more blocks up Linden Hills Blvd to the old fire station on 43rd. Simple fare, locally grown with emphasis on sustainable and organic. Pretty kid friendly too. (Not sure that is always a plus.) Todd Haug, of Surly Brewery fame, is co-owner - so the beer list, while not the most extensive, is the best I've seen/tried. If you can locate the manager, Cory, ask him for an aria - he's a very accomplished Pavarotti-wanna-be - who's not shy about belting one out as you have a belt.

Personal favorites: Tofu Tacos in Salsa Verde make the top of my head glow. Gotta love'm! The Pork in Adobo is also a killer. Ann: Champagne Pear Salad.

Friday, November 19, 2010

Calories In, Calories Out - One More Time for the Slow Learners

About a year ago, we blogged:

"Calories in = Calories out. Always. That's just the way it is. A calorie, is a calorie, is a calorie: Calories are all the same - regardless of where the come from or when you eat them..."

Many of you took great exception to that statement, arguing about "eating before bed" and "fruits and vegetables" and "what about Atkins!". However you can't argue that all calories don't provide the same amount of energy - because they do - by definition.

Enter Mark Haub, Kansas State University, professor of Human Nutrition. His premise: That in weight loss, pure calorie counting is what matters most -- not the nutritional value of the food or when it is eaten.

The proof is in the pudding (or, in this case, Prof is in the Twinkies): CNN: Twinkie Diet Professor